Area beer makers thriving


Yiannis Mirisis of Yiannis Distributing and Dennis Bates of Opa Opa Brewing Company display a few the company's selections at the American Craft Beer Fest in Boston. Reminder Publications photo by Chris Maza

June 13, 2011

By Chris Maza

Reminder Assistant Editor

BOSTON — In a time when corporations are downsizing as the cost of doing business keeps going up, there's one market that appears to be impervious to the economic uncertainty surrounding the nation.

The American Craft Beer Fest (ACBF) on June 3 and 4 at the Seaport World Trade Center illustrated the strength of the growing market of craft brewing that has proven to be almost completely unfazed by recession. Not surprisingly, Western Massachusetts' brewers have benefited along with the rest of the nation.

Pioneer Brewing Company in Sturbridge is a prime example of an upstart company that has thrived in the market, despite a low budget, minimal staffing and a national economy in flux.

"Alcohol in general is really recession proof. We've been in business for seven years and we've grown every year," Todd Sullivan, owner of Pioneer Brewing Company, said.

So how has the industry been able to flourish? John Gerachi, an East Longmeadow resident who works at Amherst Brewing Company (ABC) thinks the explanation is pretty simple.

"I really feel that if you make a good beer, people with come," he said.

Dennis Bates of Southampton's Opa Opa Steakhouse and Brewery agreed, adding that the trend during the past decade has been a focus on quality over quantity.

"Microbreweries are gaining market share while macros are losing it," he said. "I think people are buying less beer, but better beer."

If you ask R. Ben Anhalt of Element Brewing Company of Miller's Falls, having a smaller company can at times be a benefit in the tough economic climate.

"As a smaller company, we are more flexible, more streamlined," he said.

Still, brewing companies have not been totally immune, having felt the pinch from companies they do business with.

"I think the biggest thing that takes a hit during tough economic times is restaurants. So many restaurants are going out of business or not paying their bills," Sullivan said.

However, he added beer sales in bars have remained strong,

"People still don't have a problem paying $4 or $5 a pint for a great beer," he said.

What makes a great beer is very subjective, but Andrew Bosquet of High and Mighty Beer Company, which brews its beer in Holyoke, believes his company has found an especially unique niche in the market, intentionally not brewing any beers with an alcohol content of more than 5 percent alcohol by volume.

"What High and Mighty is trying to do is produce quality beers with less than 5 percent alcohol that are well balanced, tasteful and not sweet," Bosquet said. "One of the big challenges is so many people think that high alcohol content equals higher value and with the recession, people want to get the most bang for their buck. We just have to keep making the best beer we can while being consistent, honest and keeping our prices reasonable."

The Seaport World Trade Center was buzzing with interest and anticipation. Brewers from around the nation offered the public an opportunity to sample new handiwork and old staples, as well as the opportunity to meet their creators face to face. Word of mouth and a personal connection between the consumer and the product have helped the industry thrive.

"These kinds of events gives people a chance to be one on one with the brewer and you can translate the meaning behind your beer and what makes it special," Andrew Bosquet

"With the size of our company, our advertising is more viral and happens on a much more personal level than large companies that are trying to flood the media with advertising," Anhalt added.

With small operating budgets, festivals and tastings are essential to the survival of companies in the industry that compete with large corporations with millions of dollars at their disposal for publicity.

"This is our only real form of advertising," Jon Hebert of Holyoke's Paper City Brewery added. "People get to try our beers and ask questions, so I think this is the most important kind of advertising for us."

The location of ACBF was also a huge benefit to Western Massachusetts' breweries, as it offered a different, larger stage on which to present its products to a wide audience at the Eastern end of the state.

"This is huge for us. We're a very small company. In fact, all three people that work for us are here tonight," Sullivan said. "We're not out in Boston at all, so we want to raise some awareness and maybe get some people out to our spot."

Almost as important, he added, was the opportunity for brewery-to-brewery interaction. In the world of craft brewing, collaboration is not unheard of and can create very unique takes on different styles of beer.

"Another thing is the brewery support. Guys from different breweries, getting together, talking to each other," he said. "They're all friends of ours, so this event is just as fun for us."

For ABC, the ACBF was a chance to get the word out about an exciting time in the company's history. ABC will be closing the doors of its 24 North Pleasant St. location in Amherst on July 29 and moving to University Drive into the old Gold's Gym Building and with the move comes other changes.

"What makes this so important for us is we are able to get the word out about the fact we're moving into our new facility," Gerachi said. "For the first time in the company's 14 years, we'll be distributing our own beers. This is a great avenue to get that message out."

While there were several benefits for brewers at the ACBF, it was also a time for beer lovers, such as Lindsay Guido, a Western New England University grad from Brattleboro, Vt., to reconnect with some favorites. Guido raved to Hebert about her love for Paper City and especially the One Eared Monkey, a peach lager.

"I think for me Paper City's events were such a huge part of my college years. It's a very hip, groovy spot," she told Reminder Publications. "The One Eared Monkey was one of my favorites and I don't have the chance to enjoy it anymore."

Many of the Western Massachusetts breweries brought their staple beers, but also made sure to feature their summer selections.

Element showcased its Summer Pilsner Fusion, which Anhalt described as a very popular combination of an oatmeal stout and a German pilsner.

"We released eight kegs of this to the public to start and they all sold before we were even done making the beer," he said.

Along with the usual suspects, such as the Milk Stout and the Red Rock Ale, Opa Opa continued to get warm responses from fest-goers for its blueberry beer, which is being offered in bottles for the first time.

"This beer won first place in the Great International Beer Fest on Long Island in the fruit beer category," Bates said.

Amherst featured its new Gone Postal IPA, which actually offered those at the ACBF a chance to sample a beer that can no longer be found in this area.

"The Gone Postal is the latest recipe that we came out with about a month ago. People really like it and we've gone through nine barrels in three weeks," Gerachi said. "I found out [June 3] that our last keg back home just kicked."

Never fear, however. ABC's Facebook page indicates the company may put what Gerachi described as their hoppiest beer ever on their specialty list and continue brewing it in the future.

Pioneer, looking to make a good impression at their first ACBF, stuck with its staples.

"We brought our two heavy hitters the double bock and our IPA, which, compared to any beer here, is one of the best, I think," Sullivan said.

High and Mighty offered its full line, including the Purity of Essence, which Bosquet said was a revolutionary beer of sorts.

"Purity of Essence is an India Pale Lager, which is a kind of beer we like to think we're one of the first in the market to brew," he said, explaining the amount of hops used in brewing the lager far exceeds the norm.

The booths for larger, more popular microbreweries from outside the area, such as Magic Hat and Stone Brewing Company had extremely long lines, but smaller brewers from outside of Massachusetts, such as Trinity Brewhouse in Providence, R.I., and Boulevard Brewing Company of Kansas City, Mo., also received rave reviews.

Trinity's Decadence Imperial IPA deviated from the usual hints of citrus or piney hops, creating a taste resembling that of coconut. Meanwhile, Boulevard Brewing's Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale is a refreshing saison with a sweet taste similar to honey and hints of banana.

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