SPRINGFIELD – All one has to do is to survey the diners at one of this year’s Hunter’s Dinner at the Student Prince to understand the nature of tradition. Each year diners receive a commemorative badge for the event and in the crowded dining room there are people sporting up to 12 such badges on their lapels.

Rudi Scherff, the former owner of the Student Prince, said the dinner has been going on for more than 80 years at the landmark Springfield eatery.

This year, Reminder Publications wanted to find out what has drawn generations of people to the event. This writer, along with Assistant Managing Editor Payton North and Assistant Editor Jordan Houston, ventured where our palates and stomachs had never gone before.

The first thing to realize is this is a carnivore’s dinner. The six courses barely have a vegetable in sight. The second thing you will discover is that there is a terrific amount of food for $70 per person, which includes tax and gratuity. Don’t worry, your server will offer to pack up items that you want to finish but simply can’t.

Our collective advice is to pace yourself and perhaps skip lunch that day.

The evening begins with Brooklyn Smoked Salmon and Block Island Smoked Bluefish, along with various condiments and the restaurants owns duck and raisin pate and pork pate.

All of these items were new territory for the three of us, but we tried it all. The smoked salmon surprised me with its delicate flavor and the two pates were excellent especially when paired with a fig sauce or a lingonberry sauce.  
The first course was Froschschenkel (frog’s legs) served in Sauce Provencal. I had been served frog’s leg as a child once and liked them, but it was a new taste for Payton and Jordan, both of whom found their apprehension was unwarranted. The sauce was very nice and matched the flavor of the legs – which I can only describe as a delicate cross between poultry and fish – very well.

It should be noted that courses came out at a very good rhythm, giving diners enough time to comfortable consume them but not having too much of a lag. Between courses a three-piece German band – two accordions and a tuba – clad in lederhosen performed everything from “The Beer Barrel Polka” to “Sweet Caroline” much to the delight of the audience.

The second course was Forelle Nach Art Der Müllerin or German pan-fried rainbow trout made with brown butter, capers, mustard and lemon.  Jordan described herself as not a fan of fish, but the trout proved to be a surprise with its delicate flavor.

For third course, came another surprise, rabbit and ginger sausage with warm potato salad and duck bacon. The three of us voted that this was perhaps the best course as the three elements were perfectly matched and the ginger did not overpower the flavor of the sausage.

Coming in as the fourth course was Whole Roasted Wood Pigeon with a honey glaze and stewed mushrooms. Again none of us had any expectation of what this dish was, and we were surprised at how large each bird was on our plates and how delicious it was. For Payton, this was her food challenge and she amazed herself for enjoying it.

By this time, though, all of us were realizing that we were rank amateurs in the pacing department. We were struggling, with two courses and a dessert to go, to finish the pigeon, despite its fine flavor.

The fifth course was Whole Roasted Buffalo Rib eye. Again, I must note about the size of the portion. This, like the wood pigeon, was not a sampling, but rather a size fit for an entrée. The buffalo rib eye had a great beef taste but was very lean with no marbling. It is served rare and on a bed of spatzele, the German soft egg noodle.

Finally, came the six and last course, Cal Fat Wrapped Venison Loins served with a juniper berry demi-glace and with Fort Cucumber Salad. I must admit this was the only dish that wasn’t a hit at our table. It was my first experience with venison.

The dessert was flaming cherries over yellow cake, which we all found delicious.

Our conclusions? The price tag of $70 represented a real value. The quality of the dishes was high and the service was impeccable and friendly. Would we all try it again? The answer was yes.  

The final Hunter’s Dinner will be presented on Feb. 26 and for more information go to www.studentprince.com.